The kiwi was nominated protector to the fledgling trees and for this act of service, say the Maori, it lost its ability to fly. She tells me how, in Maori legend, Mother Earth and Father Sky were pushed apart by their offspring, the trees, and how the trees’ seeds in turn were consumed by animals. We pad softly along on a raised boardwalk. The setting sun throws a dusky pink wash over the landscape. Before we enter its depths, my Maori guide, Merepaea, takes me to a lookout over Hokianga Harbour. Not that there’s anything ordinary about this expanse of virgin native forest. Come nightfall, they turn something as ordinary as a mossy trunk into a miniature citadel of a thousand lights. I listen out for the shrill cry of a male kiwi, while peering through the trees in search of glow-worms. The call of the ruru owl clatters through the darkening understorey. Nearby, a pupurangi - a carnivorous snail - oozes out of its shell and slurps up an unsuspecting toke worm. Frothy nikau and rimu palms twitch in the light evening breeze bundles of crown ferns shiver. Waipoua Forest Twilight Encounter, Northlandīy James Raised boardwalk, Waipoua Forest But you could also venture to the South Island’s Kaikoura for a completely different take on a town known mainly for its marine life. If you’re very interested in the Maori, you could choose to focus your time on the North Island, where the vast majority of these experiences take place (and where most Maori live). ![]() In this guide, our specialists talk about the experiences that have allowed them to get a better understanding of Maori culture while visiting New Zealand ― and you can take part in all of them on a trip to the country. And, yet, you could easily visit New Zealand without ever coming into contact with Maori in a non-touristy way. Compared with, say, Canada’s First Nations people or Australia’s Aboriginals, Maori culture is proudly prominent and coexists peaceably with Pakeha (white New Zealander) life. New Zealand’s Maori heritage is intrinsic to its identity. ![]() By New Zealand specialists James, Sara-Jane, Allison, Alison and Bianca
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